La prima volta che mi sono immerso nei pressi dello Scoglio della Portella, volgarmente noto come “Carciofo”, non ho visto la parte più profonda di questo straordinario agglomerato di rocce densamente colonizzato dalla vita, ma soltanto le porzioni di calcare a blocchi che si snodano, esprimendosi con grandi forme, entro i trenta metri di profondità. Era il 2015, anno in cui Mauro iniziava a presentarmi i fondali del Capo di Milazzo e i punti d’immersione così com’erano stati concepiti fino ad allora. Il Blunauta era alle sue prime battute ufficiali ed io iniziavo sin da subito una felice collaborazione, sia lavorativa, sia di amichevole condivisione del bello. Si, perché il mare di Milazzo è veramente bello, tanto da aver rubato quella porzione della mia anima ancora libera dall’intricato abbraccio del mio Stretto di Messina, quindi disponibile a nuove magiche visioni di scenari sommersi, non meno importanti. Tornando al caratteristico Carciofo, nostro riferimento emerso, parlando di questo e quello dopo le prime immersioni, Mauro mi racconta a un certo punto di un grande scoglio profondo raggiungibile con qualche pinneggiata in più in direzione nord, costeggiando la scogliera litoranea meno profonda fino ad avvistare, al nostro orizzonte visibile, la sagoma scura del monolito. La curiosità che alberga nelle viscere di noi subacquei assetati di nuove scoperte ci porta quindi ad organizzare un’immersione più impegnativa, allo scopo di prendere visione di tale realtà molto poco frequentata dai subacquei locali.
Fu così che, una falcata dopo l’altra, arriviamo alle pendici tenebrose del grande Scoglio del Monaco, proteso verso l’alto vertiginosamente, maestoso alla vista. Un eden di forme e colori si nascondeva nella penombra; la luce dei nostri fari scopre d’improvviso il rosso cupo di grandi rami di gorgonie, così fitte da creare quinte indescrivibili se non con una poesia o con qualche bella fotografia.
I dettagli del luogo vedono il progressivo cambiamento del paesaggio con l’aumentare della profondità. Dalla posidonia, si passa a una copertura di grandi eunicelle bianche a candelabro e poi arancioni a cespuglio; ecco quindi il mescolarsi di eunicelle e paramuricee e la scomparsa della posidonia, che lascia spazio a poriferi e altre specie colonizzatrici dai vispi cromatismi. Ogni tanto le paramuricee lasciano lembi di roccia a parazoanti e, più nascosti, tronfi coralli molli esplodono di bellezza mostrando i loro piccoli polipi come stelline nell’oscurità del fondale. Il Mediterraneo di Milazzo si esprime qui in modo quasi sconcertante e lascia un segno indelebile nelle nostre menti, ancora oggi pervase dai colori e dalle forme di quella scenografia naturale così intensa e toccante, condivisa in quella magica giornata. Oggi l’immersione alle pendici del Monaco è divenuta routine e siamo andati addirittura oltre perlustrando e sconfinando su scogli più bassi ma molto ampi, distribuiti nell’area circostante. I punti d’immersione si sono così moltiplicati e le scoperte sempre nuove riempiono i nostri cuori ogni volta. Unica pecca, il cambiamento legato ai cambiamenti climatici degli ultimi tempi, che hanno inciso parzialmente sui popolamenti di gorgonie a causa di fastidiose e soffocanti mucillagini estive.


Ma il tutto sembra ricompensato da una forte impennata delle gorgonie verso l’istinto di riprodursi a ritmi più sostenuti, quasi a compensare le perdite stagionali. La natura ha una resilienza pazzesca. Nello stesso tempo, dalla nascita dell’AMP ad oggi, abbiamo assistito felici a un notevole incremento di pesci di diverse specie, oltre a uno spiccato cambiamento del comportamento degli stessi nei confronti dell’uomo in immersione. Pare che interrompere le normali attività di pesca quotidiana sia stato sufficiente a garantire una decisa impennata verso il ripopolamento dei diversi ecosistemi costieri, dei quali da subacquei, siamo testimoni oculari. Descrivere le numerose specie viventi alle pendici del Monaco, con la dovuta meticolosità, è ardua impresa per un biologo marino come anche per un fotografo. Noi ci proviamo da allora, con impegno e passione, cercando di osservare e monitorare ciò che accade e offrendo una grande bellezza agli occhi degli umani, animali terrestri. E per chi volesse immergersi e toccare con mano (si fa per dire) c’è sempre Mauro e lo staff del Blunauta.
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